In keeping, Mat’s cooking is refreshingly straightforward, allowing the flavours of the main ingredient to shine through, and his sensibly short daily-changing chalkboard menu champions top-notch produce from local artisan producers and foragers. Served with minimum fuss, dishes may include gutsy, accurately-cooked pigeon breasts with beetroot and berry compôte, beautifully fresh whole brill with caper and lemon butter, and lemon tart with pink rhubarb sorbet.